We started the day by visiting the Zacatecan cemetery where the mausoleums looked like miniature Greek temples.
Then we drove towards Guadalajara (200 miles). Along the way we made a stop in Jerez.
We ate lunch at Dos Jorges (carrot and squash enchiladas with tomatillo sauce, rice, beans and café de olla) where half the restaurant was taken up by grinning skulls.
We arrived exhausted, with just enough energy to eat at Bariachi restaurant where we paid to hear La Llorona (the unofficial Day of the Dead Anthem).
At our hotel a mariachi band that used to back the most famous mariachi, Vicente Fernández, was playing. They had several violins and clarinets in addition to the standard instruments. Outstanding!